The Growing Dome Greenhouse is designed to be an energy efficient and long lasting structure. However there is a certain amount of maintenance required as there is on a house or a car, to keep your investment in good condition. The aircraft quality tape on Your Growing Spaces dome will thrive best when maintained on an annual basis. This should be done when temperatures are above 60° Fahrenheit, and there is no condensation, preferably mid-day in most climates. Before attempting the maintenance it would be good to look over the whole dome to ascertain the amount of tape and screws needed to accomplish the task.

Newer Dome Maintenance Daily temperature fluctuations can force the screws to “back out” of the glazing, causing the tape above it to pucker and separate from the glazing, causing leakage, and if neglected enough may puncture the tape. In either case, it is best to cut a small X into the tape over the screw, and then reach through the X with your driver bit and tighten the screw.

Clean the area with a rag dampened with isopropyl alcohol. Then, cut a 1” x 1” square of tape over the X in the tape, press it firmly and roll it with a small roller or burnisher to secure it to the existing glazing and tape. Older (Approx. 5 years) Dome Maintenance Look for screws that have “backed out” as mentioned above. Also, check for screws that may have loosened in their holes and replace them with square drive stainless steel screws an inch above or below the existing screws. Tape and roll as described above.

Occasionally, one side of the tape may curl or separate from the glazing. Sometimes this happens near a screw and water enters into the dome through the screw hole. To remedy this problem you can cut and apply a thin strip of tape (cut to 1” wide) over the curled edge, extending it beyond the area of the leak an inch or so. Excessive curling, especially if both sides of the tape curl, is an indication that it may be time to replace an entire strip of tape. Remove the portion, or entire strip depending on the severity of the problem. Then, tighten all the exposed screws, clean the taping area with soap and water; followed with a rag dampened with isopropyl alcohol.

Retape the area with tape, preferably with tape about ½” wider than the older tape. Rub with a roller or burnisher when taping is complete. Ultraviolet light can eventually cause the tape to become brittle and crack or tear along the middle seam between the glazing sections. Usually the south side of the dome shows this symptom first. Replacing the damaged tape is the only solution here and how much to replace is the only question. A rule of thumb is that if cracking is occurring along a seam; replace most, if not all of it, as the rest will probably crack in a year or so. Pull off as much of the tape as possible, including the smallest pieces! Tighten the exposed screws, then clean the taped area with soap and water and wipe with a rag dampened with isopropyl alcohol. Retape with tape, preferable ½” wider than the older tape. Be sure to cover all the screw holes. Work from the top, downward overlapping the hub areas, and then roll the tape with a burnisher.

With severely neglected domes and domes over ten years old water damage may occur to the wooden struts sufficiently so that the screws no longer “bite” into the wood. You would notice this by discoloration (gray to black areas) of the wood. Also, you may find loose screws in the general tightening process that “just don’t tighten”. In any case, put a new square drive stainless steel screw into the glazing an inch above or below the existing screw.

Clean the area with alcohol and patch it with a 1”x 1” piece of tape. Also, with the older domes, the golden Phillips deck screws can rust and snap due to stress. Replace the screws with stainless steel square drive screws whenever possible. Be sure to drive them into new sites 1” above or below the previous screw sites. Again, clean with alcohol and retape the spot with a piece of 1” x1”tape.

Grey Tape Instructions

We started using a new kind of tape so for those of you that are using the "Grey Tape" you will need to follow these directions:

Taping with the gray tape is essentially very similar to using the aircraft tape as per the instructions in the manual. However, it does require more care in certain areas.

#1 Make sure when installing the glazing panels that the screws do not project beyond the glazing surface or create a deep dimple. The head of the screw should be flush with the surface of the panel.
Also, the screw needs to be exactly 1/4” from the edge of the glazing panel, not greater.

This is to create as generous an overlap of the screw by the tape as possible. It is advisable to offset the screws rather than having them directly opposite each other in adjoining panels. If taping a dome with double hubs make sure that the screw closest to the corner of the panel is no closer than 1 foot away from the corner. This is to prevent glazing panel being pressed down and making a sharp angle.

#2. When actually applying the tape, make the sure the surface is clean and dry by wiping with alcohol and a clean rag. When applying the tape, do not overstretch the tape. Unpeel approximately two foot at a time as this helps to maintain the tape in a straight line along the seam between the panels. If one of the panels has its tubes parallel to the tape edge it is easy to maintain the straight line of the tape. Always be slightly more generous with the tape on the uphill side of the seam as this is where water would be running under the tape. The tape will adhere to itself very easily if you need to cut and join it. We usually install the bottom cap and make it level before applying the tape. The bottom of the tape can be cut either level with the top of the bottom cap or can overlap the bottom cap, this is a personal preference. Do not wrap tape under the bottom cap.

#3 Rolling the tape must be done very thoroughly, as the glue needs to be activated by proper rolling. It is VERY important to roll thoroughly around the screw heads and where the tape crosses over itself or joins another piece of tape. It is properly applied when some of the glue starts to ooze out from under the edge of the tape. If these principles are followed the tape should give you many years of good life.

Taping Hints

Taping can be intimidating, but with a little practice it is fairly easy. A few pointers will help!

1. To best separate the tape from the white backing paper, hold the tape so that the paper backing side is towards you. Peel back a corner towards you, and then separate the tape from the paper.

2. The tape stretches! Only pull at it slightly. A little stretch is fine, too much is not!

3. Press and secure the tape to the glazing as you go. (Use the roller/burnisher after you are done with the strip you are applying.)

4. Longer runs of taping are desired, for example, when taping “eyebrows”. However, if circumstances dictate smaller segments, just be sure that the pieces overlap a few inches and are secured well with a roller or burnisher.

5. The tape and glazing must be at least 60° Fahrenheit. If this is not possible use a hair dryer to warm the surface. Keep the tape at room temperature until it is needed.

5. When using a ladder pad the ladder with a rag to prevent it scraping the surface of the glazing. Always secure the foot of the ladder with rebar stakes, especially when the ladder is at a shallow angle.

6. It is safe to climb on all sizes of dome (assuming you weigh less than 200 lb. On twin wall domes keep your weight close to the struts.

7. We find bare feet create the best grip on the glazing. A job for a warm day!

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